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Dogs

Our recommendations for a healthy dog

At Purton Vets, we recommend the following to our dog owners:

  1. Arrange an annual health assessment and vaccination against Leptospirosis, Distemper, Parvo, and Hepatitis.
  2. Feed diets like Barking Heads, Applaws or diets with ingredients you recognise as food.  Avoid supermarket foods like Iams, Bakers, Pal, Chudleys, and Pedigree Chum. Feed real food as a treat.
  3. Keep their teeth clean by brushing and encouraging chewing on rawhide chews.
  4. Deworm with Milbemax every 3 months especially if children are in their environment.
  5. Flea treatment for 12 months of the year with Activyl every 4 weeks. Minimum treatment period should extend from Spring through to Winter until well after a few good frosts.
  6. Neuter from about 6 months of age but ideally once they have stopped growing at 12 - 18 months.
  7. Microchip your dog to help find it when lost (an added bonus is our microchips have a built in thermometer so no more struggling with rectal thermometers).
  8. Insure your dog against accident, illness and 3rd party damages. Choose wisely, the more expensive policies are often better in the long run.
  9. Socialise your puppy properly between 7 and 17 weeks of age. This is a crucial time for learning and you can't go back.
  10. Join our Pet Health Club and save up to 60% providing all the above to your dog.

Regular health checks and vaccinations

Unless properly vaccinated, your dog runs the risk of contracting one of several infectious diseases.
 
We recommend vaccination in line with the World Small Animal Veterinary Association Guidelines. Puppies should have an injection at 8 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks. The 3rd injection is the most important. We recommend this is followed by an annual health assessment and booster injection.
 
The frequency at which we give boosters varies according to the disease. Leptospirosis is given every year but Parvovirus, Distemper and Hepatitis are given every 3rd year. An option at the 3rd year is to blood test to see if the patient requires a booster (leptospirosis is required annually) but not all kennels or insurance accept this as proof of protection.
 
Should you have any questions regarding vaccination then please contact the surgery.
 
The following diseases are covered by vaccination:
 
Canine Parvovirus
Canine Parvovirus is a small but extremely hardy virus that can survive in the environment for long periods. The disease first emerged in the 1970's as an epidemic, killing many thousands of dogs before an effective vaccination became available. It causes a bloody diarrhoea and vomiting syndrome and can be fatal especially in younger or dogs with a lowered immune system.
 
Canine Distemper (Hard Pad)
A virus spread mainly by close dog to dog contact. Signs may take up to three weeks to appear and include a discharge from the nose and eyes, a soft cough and neurological signs. Dogs less than one year of age are most commonly affected and it is frequently fatal.
 
Infectious Canine Hepatitis (Adenovirus)
Canine Adenovirus, which mainly attacks the liver, can rapidly be fatal. Transmission is by close dog to dog contact or contact with items that have been in contact with an infected dog. Dogs are most commonly affected in the first year of life, but all ages are susceptible. The main sign you will see is a poorly dog and
you may notice their gums and whites of their eyes appear yellow (jaundice).
 
Leptospirosis
Leptospirosis is caused by a bacteria that spreads in the urine of infected animals and is associated with stagnant water. It can spread by skin contact with the affected water or urine, and can cause disease in humans. It can affect several body organs causing liver disease, kidney disease or sudden death.
 
Kennel Cough Syndrome (Infectious Canine Tracheobronchitis)
'Kennel Cough' is a contagious upper respiratory disease usually occurring where dogs are in close contact - boarding kennels, rescue centres, shows, etc. The main symptom you will be aware of is a hacking cough that may take weeks to go away. Some dogs can be quite ill with it. A variety of infectious agents may be involved. The vaccine is administered via the nasal passages and is therefore given separately from all of the above.

The first two weeks with your new puppy

Congratulations on the new addition to your family!
With a little work and some planning, your new dog will be a well-behaved companion for years to come. It is important to recognize that first impressions are lasting ones and habits begin to develop from day one. Be sure to instill good manners and habits from the first day you bring your new puppy or dog home.
 
Remember, good habits are as hard to break as bad ones. If you follow these simple guidelines, your dog's transition into your home will be a piece of cake for both you and your new best friend.
 
1. Teach your new dog the rules of your house from the beginning.
In the words of Dr. Ian Dunbar, if you want your dog to follow the rules of the house, by all means do not keep them a secret. When your dog first gets home, he or she may be a little confused and unsure of the new living situation. Even though your home is undoubtedly comfortable, it is different than where your dog came from, and different can be stressful. It is important to remember dogs do not speak our language and will best understand your expectations through training and management. Training and management should begin the very moment your new dog arrives in your home. Your instinct may be to give your new friend a few days to unwind and adjust before imposing rules and restrictions. While you may mean well, this delaying of training has the potential to be both frustrating and damaging. Right from the very first day, it is crucial to convey your expectations to the dog and to establish an errorless training system. If you do this, your dog will succeed in learning house rules right from the beginning. If you change the house rules a few days after your dog has arrived, he will not understand why things have changed. Your dog may have already formed new habits and will have a difficult time adjusting to yet another set of expectations. It is much more efficient to teach your dog everything you would like him of her to know from the outset.
 
2. Try not to overwhelm your new dog. 
Don't overwhelm your new dog with too much activity during this initial adjustment period (individual dog's adjustment period will vary). It is very exciting to have a new dog. Of course you want to introduce her to all of your friends and family and of course you want to take your new pal everywhere! All this excitement however could be exceptionally stressful for your dog. Please keep in mind that even in the best of situations your dog's world was probably limited to a handful of environments and activities. It is best for your dog to spend the first couple of weeks quietly settling in and getting to know you with brief and frequent outings to continue the socialization process. In the beginning, limit introductions to just a few visitors at a time. If your dog has time to become familiar with you and your home surroundings, she will be more confident when setting out on adventures beyond your immediate neighborhood.
 
3. Keep your new dog either safely confined with appropriate chew toys, or supervised at all times.
This is the best way to keep your new friend (and house!) out of trouble when you are unable to monitor his actions. Your dog requires a dog-proof, safe place: a doggie den - the equivalent of a toddler's playpen- where he can rest and chew appropriate items in your absence. There are many options for your doggie den, but a crate or small room in your house is ideal. However, you may also choose an outside kennel run. Initially when your dog is loose in the house or yard you must be around to gently redirect your dog when he chooses an inappropriate activity. If you are vigilant about supervising our dog and showing him what you expect, your dog will learn to settle down quietly, to chew only appropriate chew toys and eventually to become trustworthy in your absence.
 
FOLLOW THESE GUIDELINES FOR AT LEAST THE FIRST TWO WEEKS WITH YOUR NEW DOG.
PLEASE REMEMBER MOST PUPPIES AND EVEN SOME ADULT DOGS WILL TAKE LONGER TO ADJUST, SO BE PATIENT.
 
DO immediately show your dog to his/her appropriate toilet area.
 
DO take your dog to the designated toilet area once an hour, every hour, on leash (except overnight). Allow supervised free time only after he relieves himself in the appropriate area. If your dog does not go to the bathroom on one of these trips, confine him to his doggie den OR keep him on leash and supervised, until the next scheduled potty break.
 
DO confine your dog to a doggie den whenever you are physically (or mentally!) absent. Such as when you are at work, paying bills, making dinner, sleeping, etc.
 
DO throw away your dog food bowl! Instead, feed your dog out of a hollow Kong or other chew toy stuffed with kibble and snacks throughout the day, especially when she in her “doggie den†or when you are busy. Also use part of your dog's daily ration while on walks, during training or when meeting new people.
 
DO provide plenty of appropriate chew toys to keep your dog busy and prevent chewing casualties in your home and yard. Redirect any chewing mistakes by directing your dog to an acceptable alternative. This will also help establish an appropriate chewing habit for the lifetime of your dog.
 
DO introduce your dog to new people and other pets gradually so as not to overwhelm him. Use kibble and treats to help form a positive association to new people. Be sure he has access to his den in case he needs a break from all the activity.
 
DO enroll in a basic obedience class right away! This will help you to understand how to better communicate with your dog in a way she will understand.
 
DO look for a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) that uses progressive training methods.
 
DON'T allow your dog free run of the entire house right away, or else your new friend may learn all sorts of bad habits. First take the time to teach him good habits.
 
DON'T take your dog off-leash in public until you have successfully completed an obedience class and have built a strong positive relationship with him.
 
DON'T feed your dog out of a bowl; all food should come either out of a Kong or from somebody's hand.
 
For more information regarding training your dog please go to www.dogstardaily.com
 

Puppy Socialisation

What is socialisation?
Socialisation is the process by which your puppy learns to recognise and interact with the people and animals it lives with. By learning to interact with these other animals and humans, puppies develop important communication skills. These skills enable them to recognise whether or not they are being threatened and how to respond and react to the intentions of others.
 
Habituation is the process whereby your puppy becomes accustomed to non-threatening environmental stimuli such as vacuum cleaners, hairdryers, fireworks, traffic etc and learns to ignore it and is not threatened by it.
 
Why is socialisation so important?
Proper socialisation and habituation at an early age is vital if the puppy is to grow up being a sound and happy individual.
 
Puppies do most of their learning in the first few months of their lives. This is known as the 'critical period' in which the bulk of socialisation should take place. The time up to 16 weeks of age is crucial for learning. Although the puppy can still learn to be socialised after this age, learning takes place a lot slower. If your puppy is exposed to all sorts of sounds and sights in his early life, he is less likely to become fearful when presented with them later on.
 
How to socialise your puppy
Make sure your puppy meets as many different people in his early life as possible. This includes adults, teenagers, children, toddlers and babies. Make the sure the introductions are always positive and provide any new people with treats or a toy to give to the puppy. This way, your puppy will come to see strangers as something positive.
 
Introduce your puppy to lots of different dogs of different breeds and ages. Choose the dogs carefully, as you do not want him to have a bad experience at this stage. If you know other people with young dogs, try and get together as often as possible so that they can interact. This is vital if your puppy is to learn appropriate 'social' skills and will make him more comfortable around other dogs.
 
While your puppy is still young get him used to sounds like hairdryers, washing machines, lawnmowers etc. reward him with lots of praise and treats if he does not react fearfully. If he does seem afraid, do not reassure him, as this will only reinforce the fear. Switch the machine off, or reduce the distance from the puppy until he feels more confident, and then reward him. You will just have to go slower with a more nervous type of puppy.
Introduce your puppy to other animals such as cats, livestock, chickens, horses etc. Even if this is from a short distance, if he sees them as a young dog, he is less likely to react negatively when older.
 
What should you do if your puppy shows fear during socialisation?
Don't overreact. If you panic or become over protective and make reassuring noises, the puppy will think there is something to be worried about. Appear unaffected and calm and your puppy should follow suit. Reward him with a pat or treat once he is feeling brave again.
 
Don't pressurise the puppy into approaching something new. Let him approach the object on his own. You need to stay as quiet as possible and pretend to do something else or appear disinterested. When the puppy approaches on his own and is comfortable, give him a treat.
 
If there is something that the puppy is very worried about, expose him to it as much as possible but only from a distance at first so that it appears less scary. As he gets used to it, you can gradually increase the exposure to it.
 
Remember to always reward good, calm, brave behaviour. If your puppy does react fearfully, be careful not to reinforce the behaviour with reassurance. Wait until he calms down and then reward him. But most of all, enjoy your puppy and make the most of your time spent with him in this sensitive period.
 
Below is a recommended reading list for those who would like to delve a bit deeper into their dog's psyche.
1) The Culture Clash - Jean Donaldson
2) Puppy Training for Children - Sarah Whitehead
3) The Perfect Puppy - Gwen Bailey
4) Dogs - A Startling new understanding - Ray Coppinger
 

Nutrition

Good nutrition is a requirement for a healthy long life. Unfortunately, most pets are fed on diets that are more "fast food" than health food. Most brands available in the supermarket fall into the fast food category.  
 
So how do you choose the right food? 
We tend to trust the pet food manufacturers, the advertising and the person selling us the food. Often this information is misleading marketing. If a bag says "no added preservatives" that's no guarantee the food is preservative free.  
 
Food Rules
We suggest you follow some simple food rules to help you make the right choice.  
 
1. You get what you pay for! Quality always costs a bit more. 
Good wholesome ingredients cost money. Cheap foods are made from cheap ingredients (like wheat and grains) and are either highly processed sugars or by products of other industries. Not everyone can afford the best but there are high quality diets available at relatively low cost. Our Pet Health Club clients can buy selected high quality foods at cost price with our ongoing 3 for 2 offer.
 
2. Make sure the food produces good poo.      
Poor quality diets produce large amounts of faeces which are softer than normal. Cheap pet foods do not use the same ingredients with each batch which tends to upset the balance in the intestine. They use the cheapest source of ingredients on offer which vary from week to week. Even a good quality diet might not suit your pets constitution.
 
3. Read the ingredient list.  Ideally it should be food!
If you don't recognise the ingredients or if you can't pronounce them then should you be feeding them to your pet? Avoid ingredients like wheat, corn, "by-product" and "derivative". Some good quality foods have strange sounding ingredients but don't let the fact that its a good brand stop you considering this rule.
 
4. Avoid foods you see advertised on television.  
Independent pet shops and vets give good advice but always remember rule number 5. Avoid all foods you can buy in a supermarket and beware those with national advertising campaigns!
 
5. The person selling you the food probably has an interest in you buying it.  
Step back and think about the advice and the sales persons motive. You can always come back. If you are in a pet shop and they sell their own brand food, don't buy it.  
 
6. Don't be mislead by flavours!  
To put flavour on the front of the bag like "venison" or "chicken", the food needs a minimum of 4% of that ingredient in the food. So 96% percent can be something else entirely.  
 
7. Is the ingredient list misleading?
You are probably aware that any list of ingredients on a bag starts with the most and ends with the least. If meat is the first ingredient most of us think there's more meat in the food which is ideal for our pets. Well some food companies put the meat at the front by splitting up the carbohydrates (sugars) into different types.  
 
Consider this product: Vet's Kitchen Adult Chicken & Brown Rice. The ingredient list shows Poultry meal (min. 36%), brown rice (min. 18%), white rice (min. 18%), oats, sugar beet pulp, chicken fat, brewers yeast, poultry digest, etc. The sugars have been split into brown rice + white rice + oats + sugar beet pulp. Together these make up more than 36% of the ingredients and they are all carbohydrates.
 
8. Sometimes smaller companies can control their recipes better than larger pet food companies.
The big brands you recognise from TV are owned by other very large companies who make lots of processed foods and products for the human market. They produce a lot of by-product which still has some value and they use this to make animal food. They tend to dictate to their animal food division what they can use as they need to use the by-products of their other industries. Smaller companies tend to have more choice about where they source their ingredients and have more control over the quality of the ingredients.
 

Fleas and how to control them

Fleas will find and feed on even the best looked after pet. They start breeding in spring and continue until the frosts arrive although indoors they can be a year round problem. Pets will initially pick up adult fleas outside the home, whilst walking or in the garden, and bring them indoors. Here they lay hundreds of eggs, which fall off into the carpets and furniture, soon contaminating the household environment.
 
Fleas are difficult to detect. You will not see necessarily see fleas on your pet or in the bedding. Scratching does not occur in all individuals so is not a reliable way to tell if your pets are affected. However you should suspect their presence if your pet is scratching more than usual, losing fur or getting bald patches over the back and rump. You may also see flea droppings if you part your pet's coat and look at the base of the hairs. The droppings are tiny black specs, which will stain white paper reddish brown when moistened.
 
Life Cycle  
The adult flea jumps onto your pet and stays on if it can. Should they fall off they have to get back on soon or they die. The female lays 50 eggs a day and these fall from the coat into the home environment. The eggs hatch into tiny pre-adult fleas (larvae) and then develop into adults which spin a cocoon and wait for the right moment to get onto you or your pet. A single flea will within 2 months will be responsible for 20 000 adults and 160 000 pre-adult fleas. For every flea you see there are at least 9 eggs or pre-adults in the environment.
 
Health Problems
The female has to have a bloodmeal to be able to make her eggs and these bites can cause discomfort and irritation to your pet or yourself. Some animals (and people) become allergic to fleabites and just one fleabite can then cause severe irritation sometimes for weeks. Once an allergy has developed it cannot be cured. Flea bite allergy is the most common allergy diagnosed in pets. Fleas also transmit tapeworms to cats and dogs.
 
How to solve the problem
Treat the animal to clear fleas from the coat and prevent re-infestation from the environment. We recommend Activyl spot-on.  We used to recommend frontline but it has lost it's efficacy.
 
Treat the environment by regular vacuuming and using household insecticidal sprays (we recommend Indorex) throughout the house to control the pre-adults and eggs. It is especially important to vacuum dark places like under the settees since pre-adults do not like light. Any of your pets bedding will benefit from being washed on a hot wash.
 
There are a great number of flea treatments available (an indication of the size of the problem.) Not all flea products are equally effective. Therefore, please consult us about the best and most effective ones for your particular needs.
 

Neutering your Dog

There is an overall benefit to neutering your pets
 
We recommend small to medium breed bitches are spayed after their first season (at 9 -12 months) and that large breed dogs are allowed to reach maturity and spayed after their 2nd season (at about 18 months).
 
Male dogs should be castrated at about 12 - 18 months once they have stopped growing.
 
So why should you neuter your pet?  
The most important reason to neuter is population control, which is far more important than any health issues.  Entire bitches will probably fall pregnant or be caught by a male at some point in their life. Although we have injections to stop pregnancy they are expensive and have side effects. A bitch in heat is likely to be harassed by dogs in the park as well as suffer from false pregnancy which can be as distressing for the owner as it is for the bitch.
 
Castrating males can make them more sociable and less likely to roam.
 
So before we start discussing health issues it is important to realise that population control and social reasons are the most important reasons to neuter.
 
Pro-neutering and anti-neutering campaigners often justify their positions using health issues. If I told you that by neutering your bitch you triple her risk of developing hypothyroidism (low thyroid hormone) I'm sure you would be concerned. If you knew that 99.4% of dogs have normal thyroid levels and that your spayed bitch had tripled her risk to a 98.2% chance of having a normal thyroid level it puts the risk into perspective.
 
It is important to understand how likely a disease is to occur before you consider the risk factors.
 
We know that if you spay your bitch before her first season there is a significant reduction in risk of mammary cancer to almost zero. The risk of cancer increases with every oestrus cycle until 3 years of age when there is no longer a reduction in risk by spaying her. This is used to promote spaying and is a good reason to neuter as it saves lives. In Norway where almost all bitches are not spayed, they have an incidence of up to 3.5% for mammary cancer depending on the breed of dog (at least 96.5% of dogs are unaffected by mammary cancer). In the UK where most bitches are spayed we have an incidence of 0.5% mammary cancer (99.5% unaffected). So Norway has up to 3% more cases of mammary cancer than the UK (this equates to 90 000 cases of mammary cancer in the UK).
 
Keep in mind the relative risk of developing a problem when you look through the positive and negative affects on health that neutering may have.
 
The Bitch
On the positive side, benefits to spaying female dogs:

  • Population control. A bitch can have up to two litters a year
  • Pregnancy and birth can be risky, so think carefully before breeding
  • False pregnancy is relatively common after a season. The bitch can suffer anorexia, lactation and behaviour changes that often result in the owner seeking veterinary intervention
  • Social reasons. A bitch has approx. two oestrus cycles a year and will attract male dogs for a few weeks. This is distressing for the bitch and owner, as you cannot walk the dog without getting unwanted attention
  • If done before 2.5 years of age significantly reduces the 1% - 3% chance of developing malignant mammary cancer
  • Reduces to almost zero the risk of pyometra (infected womb) which would otherwise affect about 23% of bitches, of which 1% would be fatal
  • Reduces the risk of perianal fistulas, a rare condition causing open wounds around the anus
  • Removes the small risk of ovarian cancer which affects 0.5% of dogs

 
On the negative side, spaying female dogs:

  • Can cause urinary incontinence, in 4% - 20% of dogs, mostly large breed dogs (80% - 96% of spayed dogs are unaffected). Many incontinent dogs can be managed effectively by hormone replacement
  • If done before maturity it triples the risk of osteosarcoma, a malignant bone cancer that affects mostly heavy large breed dogs. 5% of Rottweilers and 1% of Labradors are affected, so 95% - 99% of large breed dogs are unaffected
  • Doubles the risk of splenic haemagiosarcoma, a malignant tumour that affects about 2.5% of dogs.  So 97.5% of dogs are unaffected and doubling the risk means at least 95% of spayed dogs are unaffected
  • Triples the risk of hypothyroidism that affects 0.6% of dogs, so 99.4% of dogs are unaffected and if neutering triples the incidence then 98.2% of spayed dogs will not be affected
  • Almost doubles the risk of obesity, however obesity has many factors that influence its development just as in humans
  • Increased risk of a small vulva, dermatitis around the vulva and vaginitis if spayed before first oestrus. The true incidence of this is unknown
  • Increased risk of urinary tract infections. Incidence is unknown
  • Doubles the small risk of urinary tract tumours which occur in <1% of dogs, so >99% of dogs are unaffected and >98% of spayed dogs remain unaffected
  • Increased risk of orthopaedic disorders but by how much is uncertain

 
Our neutering policy is designed to minimise the potential health side effects of neutering while retaining the health benefits. By neutering larger dogs later in their development we minimise the risks. Smaller dogs can be neutered earlier.
 
The Dog
On the positive side, benfits to castrating dogs:

  • Population control, there are far to many unwanted litters
  • Social reasons. Castrated males are often less aggressive and less likely to roam
  • Eliminates the risk of dying from testicular cancer, of which >99% of male dogs are unaffected
  • Reduces the risk of perianal fistulas, a rare condition causing open wounds around the anus
  • Reduced risk of non-cancerous prostate disorders, usually a problem in most old dogs
  • Reduced risk of perineal hernia, a muscle weakness around the anus

 
On the negative side, castrating dogs:

  • If done before maturity it triples the risk of osteosarcoma, a malignant bone cancer that affects mostly heavy large breed dogs. 5% of Rottweilers and 1% of Labradors are affected so 95% - 99% of large breed dogs are unaffected
  • Slightly increases the risk of splenic haemagiosarcoma, a malignant tumour that affects about 2.5% of dogs. So 97.5% of dogs are unaffected
  • Triples the small risk of hypothyroidism that affects 0.6% of dogs, so 99.4% of entire dogs and 98.2% of castrated dogs will be unaffected
  • Triples the risk of obesity, however obesity has many factors that influence its development just as in humans
  • Quadruples the small risk of prostate cancer which affects <0.6% of dogs, so >99.4% of entire males are not affected. Castrated dogs will have >97.6% chance of being unaffected
  • Doubles the small risk of urinary tract cancer, but >99% of dogs and >98% of castrated dogs remain unaffected
  • Increased risk of orthopaedic disorders but by how much is uncertain

 
Our neutering policy is designed to minimise the potential health side effects of neutering while retaining the health benefits. There is no benefit to early castration so dogs should have stopped growing before we castrate them. Larger dogs mature later than smaller dogs.  
 
If a bitch comes into season we recommend a waiting period of 3 months before we neuter her. This allows for her hormone levels to return to normal 'resting' levels and reduces the risk of bleeding during surgery.
 
Alternatives to neutering
There are alternative treatments available instead of surgery, which involves either hormone tablets or injections which have to be repeated at appropriate intervals. However as there are serious risks associated with these medications we do not recommend them.
 
Accidental Mating
Bitches can be mated accidentally when they are in season. If this occurs, and you do not wish the bitch to become pregnant then there are drugs available to prevent pregnancy. Please contact the surgery as soon as possible during opening hours.
 

Microchipping

A good quality microchip is a simple way of identifying your pet for life. Our microchips include a built in thermometer making it easier to check your pets temperature at the surgery.
 
A microchip about the size of a grain of rice is implanted under the skin near the shoulders this contains a unique registration number. The number stays with your pet for its life and can be read by special scanners which most veterinary surgeries, animal organisations and some police stations have. This is a little like having your shopping scanned in a supermarket.
 
This allows a positive identification to be made and for you to be contacted as soon as possible.
 
Microchips can be used in cats, dogs, ferrets, rabbits, even tortoises and larger birds.
 
Unlike collars and tags, microchips can't "slip off".
 
Quality microchips have an extremely low failure rate but we do advise having your pet scanned each year to check their chip is still working.
 
It's very important that if you move or change your telephone number you alert the chip company so you can still be contacted.

Practice information

Purton Surgery

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  • Mon
    8:30am - 7:00pm
  • Tue
    8:30am - 7:00pm
  • Wed
    8:30am - 7:00pm
  • Thu
    8:30am - 7:00pm
  • Fri
    8:30am - 7:00pm
  • Sat
    8:30am - 2:30pm
  • Sun
    9:30am - 1:30pm

Emergency Details

Please call:

01793 771869
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Find us here:

77 High Street, Purton, Swindon, SN5 4AB
get directions with Google Maps
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Please call this number for emergencies:

01793 771869

Cricklade Surgery

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  • Mon
    8:30am - 11:30am; 4:30pm - 7:00pm
  • Tue
    8:30am - 11:30am; 4:30pm - 7:00pm
  • Wed
    8:30am - 11:30am; 4:30pm - 7:00pm
  • Thu
    8:30am - 11:30am; 4:30pm - 7:00pm
  • Fri
    8:30am - 11:30am; 4:30pm - 7:00pm
  • Sat
    Closed
  • Sun
    Closed

Emergency Details

Please call:

01793 771869
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Find us here:

Bath Road, Cricklade, Swindon, SN6 6AT
get directions with Google Maps
Back

Please call this number for emergencies:

01793 771869